Golden Wool Tailor (Thailand) : Business Suit. Ceremony Suit. Wedding Suit. Customers Suit.
1340-2 Charoenkrung Road (between Soi 42 and Soi 40), Bangrak, Bangkok
+66(0)2 233 5153 , +66(0)2 233 0149
How to spot a high quality suit

Construction of Body

Back in the day, suits were made with a layer of horsehair canvas sewn between the lining and jacket cloth. Today, to create suits that are mass-produced and budget friendly, a fused interlining is glued to the jacket’s cloth. Only the finest quality suits incorporate a fully canvassed jacket between the woolly shell and jacket lining. The canvas provides durability, allowing the jacket to drape properly over the body and overtime, molds to the shape of wearer, resulting in the perfect fit

Fabric

Another sign of a good quality suit is the fabric used to make the suit. Quality suits will be made using natural materials which is most commonly wool as well as cotton, linen and silk. These natural materials are more durable and will breath more effectively which means they are more comfortable for the wearer and won’t cause you to sweat or feel uncomfortably hot. Suits that are made using synthetic materials like polyester will be far less durable, won’t breath well and will have a shiny appearance which are all negative aspects in terms of appearance and functionality. There is one more key sign when it comes to the quality of fabric which is the thread count number. Essentially a suit can have a thread count or thread thickness which is graded by a numbers system from around 80 to 150 and even as high as 200. If you have ever been suit shopping then I am confident several sales attendants would have been telling you that their suits are made from the finest “super 100’s” wool or other material. Higher thread counts such as super 120’s and 130’s produce a lighter, softer and more comfortable suit. But just keep in mind that a lighter, softer suit is not necessarily durable and may be more prone to wrinkling and wear and tear. Instead of just seeking out the highest thread count because a sales attendant tells you it’s the best, it’s more important to consider how often you will be wearing the suit and the climate in which you live. If you live in a cold climate, wear suits everyday and you only own one or two suits then you would actually be better off having a suit with a thread count around 100 or 110 because the added thickness will be warmer and more durable to withstand the regular wear and tear. And if you live in a warmer climate and don’t wear suits very often, a higher thread count of 130 or 140 which produces a lighter, softer suit may be better suited to the warmer temperature and lack of durability required due to irregular wear..

Lapel

A well-made suit should have a panel inside the lapel that is covered in rows of stitching that pull the lapel into a gentle roll.

Bad suit On a low-quality suit, the lapel falls flat, as though folded. There’s no separation between the lapel and shoulder.

Good suit The lapel is a clear roll, creating structure. To test, hold the suit up. There should be a distinct gap between the lapel and suit.

Pick Stitchings

Next in the signs of a good quality suit is pick stitching on the lapels. Pick stitching has been done by hand as opposed to machine stitching and is one of the clear signs of a good quality suit.

Lining

Lining protects the exterior cloth of the suit from body sweat and other wear and tear. It also conceals the interior suit construction, allowing for comfort and ease of movement. A quality suit will have a sturdy lining to ensure the full life expectancy of the garment. In regards to the trousers, the pant-leg lining should extend as far as possible (at least to the knee) to warrant preservation.

Button

The buttons of a quality suit will be made from horn and not plastic. Quality buttons will be thick and sturdy and well stitched to the fabric. Poor quality buttons will be thin and shiny and may be loosely stitched to the suit and look as though they may easily disconnect.

Button Hole

To complete the look, buttonholes should secure the button relatively close to the body. For the best finish, buttons and buttonholes should be sewn by hand.

Pocket

Not all suit pockets are created equally. Machine stitched pockets are often less durable than hand-sewn pockets and start to unravel with wear. In order to maintain the sleekness and durability of the jacket, ticket-pockets, jetted pockets, or flap pockets should be hand-sewn. To avoid unsightly bulges and sagging, the trouser pockets should be hand-sewn as part of the waistband. This way, they’re supported from the top for a consistent clean line

Cuff

If a suit is of good quality, the 4 0r 5 buttons on the suits jacket sleeve near the wrist will be working buttons. Working buttons means that the buttons can actually be unbuttoned and the sleeve can be rolled up your wrist. Working buttons are not actually functional as it’s not necessary to roll your suit sleeves up. However working buttons are a strong indication of quality craftsmanship and a more carefully made suit. So if you’re looking at new suits and the buttons near the wrist are just there for show and not actually functional, you will know that the suit is not of the highest quality

Credit:
https://garrisonbespoke.com/spot-good-suit/
www.linkedin.com/pulse/signs-good-quality-suit-dan-thomas